Where to eat in Milan’s Maggiolina district: historic trattorie and fusion eateries

Milanese restaurant Testina in via Abbadesse

For a taste of history and tradition with a pinch of the contemporary, the place to be is Testina, in via Abbadesse, right next to the historic Abbadesse Convent, in an ancient corner of Milan.

The contemporary look of the restaurant could lead lovers of tradition astray, but it was right here that the team and chef of the truly historic Milanese trattoria La Pesa—which dates back to 1902—relocated in 2014.

The restaurant offers a welcoming environment and a menu that honours its history, with typical Milanese dishes such as mondeghili meatballs, pearl-barley orzotto and ganassino di vitello con risotto giallo (braised beef cheeks with saffron risotto).

La Vecchia Milano lives on at Osteria del Progresso

Lovers of historic eatery Vecchia Milano will find paradise nearby, in via del Progresso. Inside a traditional casa di ringhiera block, belonging to a cooperative, a courtyard hosts a boules club open since 1850, and the annexed Osteria del Progresso.

In the past, there were other spaces for playing cards and dancing, while today the only survivor is the very rare Milanese “alla meneghina” boules court. In this version of the game, balls are thrown diagonally over adjacent lanes separated by raised channels serving as “cushions”.

The Osteria preserves and protects the venue’s history, welcoming a diverse clientèle seeking a rustic and authentic experience.

Finger’s Garden in via Keplero: a luxury Japanese restaurant

Alongside all this tradition, there is also space for experimental, international cuisine, as demonstrated by various restaurants in the district, starting with Finger’s Garden in via Keplero. This is a luxury Japanese restaurant within an immaculately kept garden, offering refined Japanese cuisine with Brazilian influences, prepared by chef Roberto Okabe.

Brazilian restaurant, Barbacoa, in via Slataper

Anybody who loves authentic Brazilian dishes will love Barbacoa, in via Slataper. This churrascaria opened its first location in San Paolo in 1990, and now boasts eleven restaurants around the world.

The Maggiolina location is the only one in Europe.

Vietnamese restaurant, Vietnamonamour, in via Taramelli

Vietnamonamour, in via Taramelli, again demonstrates the strong international culinary scene in the area. A Vietnamese restaurant, as you may guess from its name, this eatery is located in a 1921 residence that has been completely renovated, with a garden, vegetable patch, furnishings in tropical solid wood and a geothermal system. For those who wish to further immerse themselves in the Vietnamese experience, Vietnamonamour also operates as a bed and breakfast.

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